20 Years of Eating in Washington


Two issues haven’t modified within the 20 years I’ve been reviewing eating places for The Washington Submit: Patrick O’Connell and the caricature that has accompanied my byline on-line.

O’Connell, in fact, is defying gravity on the Inn at Little Washington, the Virginia eating vacation spot that has entertained a number of generations of merrymakers over 4 a long time and final yr garnered the ultimate three stars from France’s Michelin Guide.

My black-and-white sketch endures, too, by no means up to date to mark the passage of time. Greater than 9,000 restaurant meals on the job can take their toll on a critic. A present (and sincere) rendering would reveal an additional chin and a fuller swimsuit.

Not that I’m complaining. Everybody needs to be so fortunate to be paid to pursue their ardour. My nice fortune over 20 years has been to doc the Washington eating scene for a discerning viewers — to chew and inform, so to talk.

Apart from, time flies while you’re having pho … and lamb vindaloo, child goat, steamed mussels, Peking duck, doro wat, hen peri-peri, a daiquiri animated with Pop Rocks, pasta tinted with squid ink, “breakfast for dinner,” vegetable charcuterie, 100-day-old kimchi and extra dishes of complete fish and grilled meat than I can rely.

The Brooklyn cake from Brothers and Sisters (Laura Chase de Formigny; meals styling and manufacturing by Jennifer Beeson Gregory).

Talking of steak, my debut overview put me on the Prime Rib on Okay Road. The restaurant was removed from new even then, however it occupied a spot alongside an influence hall and served one thing I figured a number of readers may relate to, in a eating room so formal it stored a closet of coats and ties for gents who didn’t know higher. Again then, patrons sought out steakhouses, or seemed to French or Italian…



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